
From Nowhere
to Somewhere
James Howard Kunstler
Auhor of The Geography of Nowhere, Home from Nowhere, and The
City in Mind
The
cultural memory of what many of our cities once were has followed their physical
fabric
into oblivion. In the 1990s, a downtown with little sign
of human
presence and endless stretches of blank, lifeless walls once placed Nashville
firmly among these lost cities. Everywhere, one could see the signs of
Nashville’s
eroded identity. Urban renewal had converted a whole set of neighborhoods
adjoining downtown into an aster-oid belt of surface parking. The country-music
nightclub dis-trict ran barely two blocks on Broadway and the street itself
had the unpleasant and desolate character found in many fail-ing”main
streets” in the era of American suburbia. Even the Ryman Auditorium
was locked up in mothballs.
A walk from the Vanderbilt
campus across the river to Five Points in East Nashville is comparable
in distance to a stroll in
central Paris from Gare St-Lazare to
the Luxembourg Gardens. The difference is that the journey in Paris is rewarding
to the spirit every step of the way, whereas the journey in Nashville takes
you through moonscapes of urban desolation, deserts of parking lots,
demoralizing
walls of submerged and elevated freeway and past desultory one-story industrial
and commercial bunkers, for which there is not enough Prozac in the world to
mitigate the psycho-spiritual punishment.
So why shouldn’t
Nashville want to be a s good as Paris? This is a fraught question,
especially in Nashville,
which as the Country Music Capital of America
is held hostage by the crip-pling popular notion that country life is the only
acceptable manner of living and the highest expression of democracy and decency.
Hence we get suburbia, which has been the attempt to deliver that idea materially
to the masses. The result is a sor-did, puerile cartoon of country life, not
real places but con-sumer products devoid fo both natural and civic amenities.
However,
I returned to Nashville in 2002 and found a city on the brink of
substantial rebirth. After years of civic self-destruction and inertia,
Nashvillians saw
that the city wasn’t growing very well, believed Nashville should be
a beautiful city, and were trying to be intelligent about how to make it so.
“
Nashville is a city that is no longer afraid to admit it made mistakes,” Mark
Schimmenti, the design director of the new Nashville Civic Design Center,
told me. And, as the conver-sion of the failing Church Street Mall into a
proud, grand
li-brary demonstrates,
Nashville is a city that’s not afraid
to begin to correct them either.
This time I got excited
about being in Nashville. It has only been in the fifty years that
the idea of the city
fell into utter disrepute
among
the American public. Everywhere I go now I detect a yearning for the
kind of urban excitement that the ‘burbs’ just haven’t
been able to deliver, even in the best malls (if such oxymorons exist).
The knowledge for how to accom-plish this urban revival is now institutionalized
in the civic leadership of Nashville, a city once known as the Athens
of the South.
Nashville begun to
make important steps to recover its lost “cultural
memory” by turning towards the city again and away from the myths
of suburban life.
From The Plan of Nashville:
Avenues to a Great City.
Vanderbilt University Press (Nashville) 2005.
Excerpted from an essat that
appeared in Metropolis (February 2003)
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